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Most tourists who leave Qingchengshan disappointed made one mistake: they chose the wrong mountain.
Front Mountain and Back Mountain are not two parts of the same place. They are completely different experiences. One is a Taoist pilgrimage through misty temples and ancient ginkgo trees. The other is a raw, waterfall-laced jungle hike where monkeys might steal your lunch. Pick the wrong one, and you will be bored, exhausted, or both.
Here is how to decide.
If you're planning a trip to Chengdu, this guide is part of the Chengdu travel guide hub, where you can explore everything from pandas to food and day trips.
Quick Answer
Which mountain should I visit, Front or Back?
Direct answer: Choose Front Mountain if you want Taoist culture, easy walking, cable car access, and iconic temple photos. Choose Back Mountain if you want raw nature, waterfalls, a real hike, and cheap entry. Front Mountain suits 80 percent of visitors. Back Mountain is for hikers and nature lovers only.
How do I get from Chengdu to Qingchengshan?
Direct answer: Take Metro Line 2 or 6 to Xipu Station terminus. Transfer to the C-train (high-speed rail) to Qingchengshan Station. The train takes 23–30 minutes and costs 10 RMB. Book your round-trip ticket in advance on the 12306 app. From Qingchengshan Station, take the official shuttle bus to your chosen mountain entrance.
How long do I need for Qingchengshan?
Direct answer: Front Mountain takes 3–5 hours. Back Mountain takes 5–8 hours. Do not try both in one day. A half-day visit works only for Front Mountain with the cable car. For a relaxed experience, plan a full day for one mountain.
Quick Decision Table: Front Mountain vs. Back Mountain
| Option | Basic Facts | Best For | Avoid If | Main Advantage | Trade-off / Risk | Booking / Signature Detail | TripChina Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front Mountain (qianshan) | 80 RMB ticket, 3–5 hrs, cable car available, cultural sites | First-time visitors, families, elderly, photographers, short visits | You want wilderness hiking, you hate crowds | Taoist temples, misty peaks, easy logistics, iconic "quiet" experience | Can be crowded by 10 AM, food is pricey inside the scenic area | Book online via WeChat. Enter by 8 AM for the quietest experience. Cable car 35 RMB one-way. | Best for most visitors. Pick this if unsure. |
| Back Mountain (houshan) | 20 RMB ticket, 5–8 hrs, strenuous hiking, waterfalls and gorges | Hikers, nature lovers, budget travelers, solo adventurers | You have knee problems, you are unfit, it is raining, you are short on time | Raw nature, cheap entry, cheap food at Tai'an Ancient Town, few crowds | Slippery trails when wet, aggressive monkeys, poor cell signal, pit latrines | Two cable cars available (Jinli 30 RMB, Baiyun 45 RMB). Take both and walk only the best sections if unfit. | Only for fit travelers who want a real hike. |
| Both mountains in 2 days | 100 RMB total tickets, 2 full days, stay overnight near Back Mountain | Travelers with time and energy who want both culture and nature | You only have one day, you are not physically prepared | Complete Qingchengshan experience | Requires overnight stay, second day is physically demanding | Stay at Tai'an Ancient Town between days. Day 1 Front Mountain, Day 2 Back Mountain. | Recommended only for motivated travelers with two days. |
| Dujiangyan + Front Mountain in 2 days | 160 RMB total tickets, easy pace, variety of attractions | First-timers wanting variety, families, culture + water scenery | You specifically want Back Mountain hiking | See the irrigation system and the mountain in one trip | Does not include Back Mountain nature | Day 1: Dujiangyan (Lidui Park Station) + Panda Valley. Day 2: Front Mountain. | Best 2-day plan for first-time visitors. |
| Wangpo Rock (wangpoyan) | Free entry, water play, half-day, near Qingchengshan | Budget families, locals with free time, summer cooling | You expect anything like Jiuzhaigou | Free, easy access, casual water play | Completely incomparable to real Jiuzhaigou. Disappointing scenery. | Free parking. Bring your own food. | Skip unless you have low expectations and free time. |
TripChina Verdict
Front Mountain is the right choice for most visitors. It delivers the iconic "Qingcheng is the most tranquil place under heaven" experience with manageable effort. Back Mountain is excellent but only if you know what you are signing up for, a long, wet, knee-straining hike with monkeys and pit toilets.
If you have one day and want the classic Qingchengshan experience, pick Front Mountain. If you have two days, do Front Mountain first, then Back Mountain.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake 1: Arriving at the wrong mountain entrance
Front Mountain and Back Mountain are 8–10 km apart with separate ticket gates. Taxi drivers will take you wherever you say without asking twice. Say "Front Mountain" or "Back Mountain" clearly. If you are not sure, say "Front Mountain."
Mistake 2: Arriving after 10 AM
The "quiet" experience of Qingchengshan disappears by 10 AM when tour groups arrive. Enter at 8 AM opening time. The mist, the birdsong, the empty temples, that is the real Qingcheng.
Mistake 3: Buying tickets from street vendors
At Qingchengshan Station, touts will offer "cheaper entry" or "fast track" tickets. These are scams. They lead to unmaintained areas or illegal entry routes. Only buy tickets from the official WeChat accounts "qingchengshan dujiangyan" or "yue you dujiangyan."
Mistake 4: Wearing bad shoes
"Do not wear high heels to cultivate immortality, " as one local put it. The stone steps are uneven, wet, and slippery. Wear anti-slip, comfortable shoes. Trekking poles help on Back Mountain.
Mistake 5: Trying both mountains in one day
You will be exhausted, rushed, and disappointed. Each mountain deserves a full day. If you only have one day, pick one.
Mistake 6: Skipping the shuttle bus at Front Mountain
The walk from the main gate to Yuecheng Lake is a long, paved road with no scenery. Take the shuttle bus. "Don't ask me how I know, " as one repeat visitor warned.
Mistake 7: Hiking Back Mountain in the rain
The stone paths grow moss. The plank walks become dangerously slippery. Rain also increases the risk of falling rocks on some sections. If it is raining, switch to Front Mountain.
Mistake 8: Not bringing cash
Mountain signal is poor. Many food stalls and small shops do not accept cards or mobile payments. Bring at least 200 RMB in small bills.
Mistake 9: Using the summit toilets
The toilets at the summit and deep valleys are pit latrines with no flush. Use the facilities at the base before you start hiking.
Mistake 10: Booking cheap combo tours
Combo tours for "Dujiangyan + Qingchengshan" sold on the street are shopping tours in disguise. You will spend more time in souvenir shops than at the attractions.
How to Get to Qingchengshan from Chengdu
The public transport route is simple and efficient. Do not take a taxi from central Chengdu, it costs more and takes longer in traffic.
Step 1: Metro to Xipu Station (xipu zhan)
Take Chengdu Metro Line 2 or Line 6 to the terminus at Xipu Station. This takes about 40–50 minutes from central Chengdu.
Step 2: Train to Qingchengshan Station (qingchengshan zhan)
From Xipu Station, take the C-train (intercity high-speed rail) to Qingchengshan Station. Trains run frequently. The ride takes 23–30 minutes and costs 10 RMB. Book your ticket in advance on the 12306 app, trains sell out on weekends and holidays. You need your passport to book. Book a return ticket at the same time.
Step 3: Shuttle bus to the mountain entrance
From Qingchengshan Station:
- To Front Mountain: Take the official scenic area shuttle bus (10–20 RMB one-way, verify exact price at the station) or Bus 101 (2 RMB). A taxi costs about 15 RMB.
- To Back Mountain: Take the official bus to Tai'an Ancient Town (16 RMB one-way, 25–30 RMB round-trip). The ride takes about 40 minutes.
Important: Front Mountain and Back Mountain are 8–10 km apart with separate ticket gates. Tell your taxi driver or bus clearly which mountain you want.
Self-driving: Take the Chengguan Expressway to the Qingchengshan exit. The drive takes 1–1.5 hours from Chengdu. Parking costs 10–20 RMB per day. On holidays, free parking is available at Sunac wenyu cheng (Sunac Cultural Tourism City).
Front Mountain Deep Dive: Temples, Mist, and Taoist Quiet
Front Mountain is the cultural heart of Qingchengshan. This is where you find the ancient Taoist temples, the stone pathways through bamboo groves, and the mist that inspired the saying "Qingcheng is the most tranquil place under heaven."
Best Route for Front Mountain
Route 2 (Classic, 4–5 hours): Main Gate → Jianfu Palace (jianfu gong) → Natural Picture (tianran tuhua, scenic viewing platform) → Tianshi Cave (tianshi dong) → Shangqing Palace (shangqing gong) → Laojun Pavilion (laojun ge, summit) → walk down or cable car down to Yuecheng Lake.
This route gives you the full experience without being too punishing. The walk between Tianshi Cave and Shangqing Palace passes through the Nine Bends (jiu dao guai) and the Brush-throwing Trench (zhi bi cao), narrow stone paths cut into cliffs with views over the forest canopy.
Route 1 (Easy, 3–4 hours): Main Gate → shuttle bus to Yuecheng Lake → ferry across the lake (5 RMB) → cable car to Shangqing Palace (35 RMB one-way, 60 RMB round-trip) → walk to Laojun Pavilion → cable car down.
This is the route for families, elderly visitors, or anyone short on time. You still see the summit and the main temple.
Route 3 (Hardcore Hike, 5–6 hours): Main Gate → walk to Yuecheng Lake → walk up through Natural Picture, Tianshi Cave, Chaoyang Cave (chaoyang dong) → Shangqing Palace → Laojun Pavilion → walk down or cable car down.
Skip the shuttle and cable car. This route is for fit travelers who want to earn the view.
What to See on Front Mountain
- Jianfu Palace (jianfu gong): The first temple at the base. Built during the Tang Dynasty. Check the 394-character couplet on the main hall.
- Natural Picture (tianran tuhua): A scenic pavilion with views over the mountain. Good photo stop.
- Tianshi Cave (tianshi dong): The most important Taoist site on the mountain. The courtyard has an ancient ginkgo tree said to be 1,800 years old. You might hear a Taoist playing the guqin (Chinese zither) here. The quiet in this courtyard is the real Qingcheng.
- Shangqing Palace (shangqing gong): A large temple complex near the summit. Has a teahouse where you can drink Qingcheng bitter tea.
- Laojun Pavilion (laojun ge): The summit. On clear days, you can see the Dujiangyan irrigation system and the Chengdu plain. On misty days, you see nothing but white, which is also the point.
Food on Front Mountain
Taoist vegetarian meals are available at Tianshi Cave and Shangqing Palace for about 15–30 RMB per person. The food is simple but satisfying. Avoid the overpriced noodle stall near the cable car station. Bring snacks and water from the base.
Back Mountain Deep Dive: Waterfalls, Plank Paths, and Monkeys
Back Mountain is a different world. The trails follow gorges and waterfalls. Plank paths are carved into cliff faces. The vegetation is thick and wet. This is not a place for casual sightseeing, it is a physical challenge.
Best Route for Back Mountain
Small Loop (5–6 hours): Tai'an Ancient Town → Wulong Ditch (wulong gou, Five Dragon Ditch) → Hidden Dragon Gorge Plank Walk (longyin xia zhandao) → Youyi Village (youyi cun, Friendship Village) → Cuiying Lake (cuiying hu, Emerald Reflection Lake, boat 2–3 RMB) → Feiquan Ditch (feiquan gou, Flying Spring Ditch) → Tai'an Ancient Town.
This loop covers the best parts of Back Mountain without going to the summit. The Wulong Ditch section has five waterfalls in sequence. The Hidden Dragon Gorge Plank Walk is carved into the cliff face with water dripping from above and a roaring stream below. The hand-rowed wooden boat at Cuiying Lake crosses an emerald-green pool surrounded by primeval forest.
Large Loop (6–8 hours): Same as small loop, but continue from Youyi Village to Baiyun Ancient Village (baiyun guzhai) and Baiyun Temple (baiyun si) before descending to Cuiying Lake. This adds the summit but requires more time and fitness.
Easy Route (take both cable cars): Tai'an Ancient Town → Jinli Cable Car (30 RMB one-way) → walk the Wulong Ditch section → Youyi Village → Baiyun Cable Car (45 RMB one-way) → walk down to Cuiying Lake → boat → walk through Feiquan Ditch → Tai'an.
This is the best option for unfit travelers. You still see the best gorges and waterfalls without climbing all the stairs.
Monkey Warning for Back Mountain
The monkeys on Back Mountain are aggressive. They are not cute. They are thieves with teeth.
- Do not carry plastic bags or food in your hands.
- Do not open your backpack near them.
- Do not make eye contact or scream.
- Store all food and plastic bags inside your backpack.
If a monkey approaches, drop what you have and walk away calmly.
Food on Back Mountain
Eat at Tai'an Ancient Town before or after your hike. The food here is cheaper and more authentic than anywhere on Front Mountain.
Must-try dishes: Qingcheng smoked pork belly (qingcheng lao la rou), smoked pork ribs (la pai gu), cold-water fish hotpot (leng shui yu huoguo), wood-fire chicken (chai huo ji), tofu pudding with rice (dou hua fan), and handmade glutinous rice cake (shougong ci ba).
Bring 200 RMB in cash. Many stalls on the mountain have no cell signal for mobile payments.
Two-Day Itinerary Options
Plan A: Classic (Front Mountain + Back Mountain)
Day 1: Arrive at Qingchengshan Station by 9 AM. Take the shuttle to Front Mountain. Follow Route 2 (Classic) for 4–5 hours. Take the shuttle back to Qingchengshan Station, then the bus to Tai'an Ancient Town. Stay overnight at a guesthouse in Tai'an. Eat smoked pork belly and cold-water fish hotpot for dinner.
Day 2: Start Back Mountain small loop by 8 AM. Finish by 2–3 PM. Take the bus back to Qingchengshan Station. Train back to Chengdu.
Plan B: Variety (Dujiangyan + Front Mountain)
Day 1: Take the train to Lidui Park Station (lidui gongyuan zhan), not Dujiangyan Station. Visit Dujiangyan irrigation system (80 RMB). Walk across the Anlan Suspension Bridge. Visit Panda Valley (pandavalley.cn, book in advance). Stay in Dujiangyan city. Walk to South Bridge at night to see the "Blue Tears" light show on the river.
Day 2: Take a taxi or bus to Front Mountain (15 minutes). Follow Route 1 (Easy) or Route 2 (Classic). Return to Chengdu by evening.
Frequently Asked Questions
I have bad knees or limited time. Can I still enjoy Qingchengshan?
Yes, choose Front Mountain and take the cable car up and down. Use the shuttle bus from the main gate to Yuecheng Lake. This route (Route 1) requires minimal walking and still gives you the summit view and main temples. Avoid Back Mountain entirely if you have knee problems.
How do I handle the monkeys on Back Mountain if I am scared of animals?
If you are genuinely afraid of aggressive monkeys, choose Front Mountain instead. There are no aggressive monkeys on Front Mountain. If you still want to hike Back Mountain, go with a group, keep all food hidden inside a zipped backpack, and carry a walking stick to look larger. The monkeys are concentrated near the Wulong Ditch and Feiquan Ditch sections.
What happens if my train back to Chengdu is delayed and I miss my connection?
Trains from Qingchengshan Station to Xipu Station run frequently until about 9 PM. If you miss one, take the next available train. There is no need to panic. If all trains are sold out, take a taxi from Qingchengshan Station to Xipu Station (about 40 minutes, 80–100 RMB), then continue by metro. Alternatively, take a long-distance bus from Dujiangyan bus station back to Chengdu.
How do I book tickets as a foreigner without WeChat?
Use the official WeChat accounts "qingchengshan dujiangyan" or "yue you dujiangyan." You need your passport number to book. At the entrance, use the manual gate for foreign passport holders. Book at least three days in advance during holidays. If you cannot use WeChat, ask your hotel to help you book. As a last resort, arrive early and ask at the ticket office if any paper tickets remain, but this is not guaranteed.
I am traveling with elderly parents. Can they handle Back Mountain?
No, do not take elderly parents to Back Mountain. The trails have steep stairs, slippery sections, and no cable car access to all areas. Choose Front Mountain with the cable car and shuttle bus instead. If your parents are very fit and experienced hikers, they might manage the Easy Route on Back Mountain with both cable cars, but the walk between cable cars still involves stairs and uneven ground.
What should I eat at Qingchengshan?
On Front Mountain, try the Taoist vegetarian meal at Tianshi Cave or Shangqing Palace (15–30 RMB). On Back Mountain, eat at Tai'an Ancient Town before or after your hike. Must-try dishes: Qingcheng smoked pork belly, cold-water fish hotpot, tofu pudding with rice, and handmade glutinous rice cake.
Is Qingchengshan safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, during daytime hours. Stick to the main trails. Avoid Back Mountain in rainy weather due to slippery paths. Tell someone your planned route before you start. Cell signal is poor on Back Mountain, so download offline maps. The area is generally safe, but take standard precautions.
What is the best time of year to visit Qingchengshan?
March to April for spring blossoms and mild weather. September to November for clear skies and cool temperatures. Summer (June to August) is good for escaping Chengdu's heat and seeing the waterfalls at full flow, but expect afternoon rain. Avoid Chinese New Year, Labor Day (May 1), and National Day (October 1–7), the mountain is packed and the experience is poor.
What should I not do at Qingchengshan?
Do not buy tickets from street vendors. Do not wear high heels. Do not try to visit both mountains in one day. Do not arrive after 16:30 (ticket office closes). Do not carry food in your hands on Back Mountain. Do not book cheap combo tours from touts. Do not skip the shuttle bus at Front Mountain.
For more Chengdu travel tips, visit our Chengdu Travel Guide Hub.
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